Food Trail

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Aditi Ghosh

We continued our get-together and exploration of the food trail through north, central and south Kolkata. A few legendary food places (I picked one each from the north, central and south) need a special mention. @Putiram at the north (Kochuri and alu tarkari must try), @Sei Vui at central ( for the pocket-friendly real Chinese flavour) and @Ramanee- the soul of Dakshin at the south ( if food from southern India delights you). The city is now dotted with numerous cafes – it seems that every alternate house is a coffee shop. Our all-time favourite is still @Mud Cafe( fish fry, fish roll over a good cup of Darjeeling tea) at the heritage house of Debabrota Biswas.

If you want to further explore the culinary heritage of Kolkata, Territi Bazar (Kolkata’s own little China Town) street breakfast can simply satiate your carving for those hot, juicy Chicken Momos, Pork Momos, Shu Mei, and Sausages. The Chinese had settled here as early as the 1780s, and from then onwards they have played a significant role in defining Kolkata’s food scene. It is less number of stalls nowadays though.

Another speciality of Kolkata is the Pice hotel. Pice hotels derive their name from the Hindi word “paisa” – the lowest denomination of the Indian rupee. Named for their ability to provide wholesome, home-like meals for cheap. Scores of pice hotels littered Kolkata’s cityscape in the early 1900s when the city was a bustling metropolis, swarming with migrants who came here to work. We explored a few and liked @ Tarun Niketan the most. These hotels are over a hundred years old and steeped in history. Surprisingly, it continues to brave the pincer attack of the pandemic and price rise and still serve hearty meals at affordable rates to the city’s hungry workers, traders, students and office-goers.

Kolkata is no doubt the home for many popular Biriyani joints, but @Manzilat by home-chef Manzilat Fatima ( the lineage of Wajid Ali Shah) is a must-go for the authentic Awadh Royal Cuisine. She had made her ingredients work to the fullest to show why the biryani of Kolkata is so magical, regal and yet subtle and comforting.

Street food at Territi Bazar..hot momos by a Chinese lady

To indulge your sweet craving, @Saldanha Bakery is another hidden gem tucked away in a small bylane. It has stayed young for more than 90 years now. Saldanha cakes are a testament to the spirit of Kolkata and the way the city celebrates.